Sunday, April 29, 2018

tutotial for envelope pillow cover, beginning sewing class project

As promised from my earlier post this week, here are the instructions I provide with my envelope closure pillow kits for Pinners Conference. The handout is made to accompany the instructions I give in person during the class, so the written instructions are very simplified. I provide more direction in person.
Be sure to sign up early for my next class in November 2018 in Arizona because this class has always filled up online in advance. Registration should open in a couple months.

Our fun Bright fabrics were from Premier Prints and they were a huge hit! Everyone loved them. You can get matching fabrics and many more from Shop Fabric dot com.

One reason I love this simple pillow cover, is that it is so easy to swap out your couch pillows any time you want with any material that you come across. You are not limited to anything, if you see a fabric you want, you can use it! As your mood changes you can swap the pillows out and not feel like you are spending so much money on store bought pillows. Plus, it is such a satisfying feeling to make something yourself!

Here is the print out that is pretty basic. It is missing some info because I make my pillow kits as simple as possible. We only have an hour to sew up these pillows, and with a class of 30, many who are beginners, I try to do a lot of the prep work beforehand to save the class time for just the sewing. I like to serge the edges and I also mark the blue fold lines in advance.
I will add a few comments here to go along with the instructions, and hopefully you'll be able to make your own envelope back throw pillow from scratch.

This makes a pillow cover that is a 19" square finished size. It will fit a pillow form that is 20" perfectly. I love to get my pillow forms at IKEA, they have them at any fabric and craft store as well.

Click on image to enlarge to original size.

To start, you need to cut your fabric into one long piece, 48" x 20".
Next, to make your blue fold lines, eyeball it and mark with a water soluble pencil/pen 19" in the center. The two sides do not need to be even, I usually do about 14.5" on each side. You can do 16" and 13", it doesn't really need to be exact. The two sides will overlap in the back.

In STEP ONE, I had already finished the short edges with my serger and then we folded down 1/2" to hem each side. But if you do not have a serger, Then you will need to measure and fold the short edges down 1/2" and iron. Then fold down another 1/2" and continue to HEM as stated in STEP ONE.

In STEP TWO you will bring the hemmed edges to the center so they overlap using the blue marking you make earlier for your fold line.

In STEP THREE, we are finishing up the raw edges. When you have fraying edges the fabric will continue to unravel so sewing a zigzag stitch will keep the frayed edges form unraveling anymore and prevent your pillow from coming undone. When we zigzag here you want to stay in the 1/2" seam allowance with your needle. If you cross over your original stitching then it will show when you flip your pillow right side out. As you zigzag down, the needle will go to the right and the left, back and forth on it's own. When the needle zigs to the right side, you want it to go off the edge of your fabric just barely, and when it zags to the left, you want it to be on the fabric.

Before we flip our pillows to be complete, I show the class how to fold over their corners so that they will poke out and be pointy, and we do not need to clip the corners. I think clipping weakens the points and try to avoid that if possible. This is tricky and hard to explain but showing it is easier.
Fold over the seam on the corner and as you hold it in place with your finger and thumb you flip your pillow right side out. It should lay flat and your pillow is done.

***If you would like to try and make a pillow cover with an invisible zipper, you can see my tutorial for how to complete that HERE in this post.

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